Home > Investing > Motorbike Leather: A Purchasing Manual On behalf of Rawhide Motorbike Wear

Motorbike Leather: A Purchasing Manual On behalf of Rawhide Motorbike Wear

July 22nd, 2010

Since the beginning of the era of motorcycling, it was clear that something was considered necessary to protect the uncovered human body from the elements. The likely solution was leather. The leather motorbike jacket, a style made accepted by such movie greats as James Dean and “the Fonz”, not merely serves as a style statement, but is an important piece of equipment to any serious biker for keeping warm, dry, and in one section. motorcycle club  A good “riding grade” leather jacket combined with motorcycle chaps or leather slacks, will operate as a second skin in between you and the road, and can quite factually “save your hide”. With all this in mind, let’s explore the things to consider while purchasing motorcycle leathers. motorcycle bike club

The most universal material for motorcycle leather is cowhide, chosen for its strength and durability. Buffalo hide, another high quality leather, is made not from the U.S. buffalo, but the water buffalo most generally found in India and Pakistan. Lots of leather products come from this part of the earth, and the Pakistanis are world renown for their expertise in the manufacturing of leather wear. Whichever type of hide you choose, you must comprehend the tanning process, and how it adds or subtracts from the quality of the leather.  motorcycle club detroit

Leather was obviously once the coat of an animal, and therefore must go through a tanning process to strengthen it, and to keep it from decomposing. Tanning makes the skin secure and rot proof without sacrificing its structure and strength. The tanning process involves quite a few stages, including the elimination of the hair and the external layer of skin, as well as the fatty share of the flesh. The hide is then stabilized by one of several methods using animal oils, alum, chrome salts or vegetable tanning. How it is in point of fact finished determines the superiority, or riding grade, for our purposes.

Varietys of Rawhide

To fully appreciate the types of leather obtainable, one must first be acquainted with the term “grain”. The grain is simply the epidermis, or outer layer of the animal’s skin. Though flaws such as cuts, scars, and scratches will be present, the grain in its natural state has the best fiber strength, and therefore the best strength. The grain also has natural breathability, resulting in superior comfort to the wearer.

Finished Split Leather

The middle or lower part of a skin that has been split into two or more thicknesses. A polymer covering is applied and embossed to mimic grain leather. Completed splits should only be used in low pressure applications because they fundamentally have no grain. If the polymer coating is left out it is often used to make suede. Not usually thought of to be riding grade, but can look good nevertheless.

Top Grain Leather

Top grain leather has been sanded to remove scars and imperfections, then sprayed or pasted for a uniform look. The smooth side is where the hair and the untreated grain was. Top grain is not the same superiority as full grain or naked leather, but thicknesses of 1.2-3mm make this sort of leather a very strong and durable riding grade material.

Full-Grain and Naked Leather

Full-Grain leather is made from the finest hides, and has not been sanded to get rid of imperfections. Only the hair has been removed. In the case of Naked Leather, where nothing other than the dye is added; this very soft material necessitates no breaking in phase. Hides are naturally 2mm thick, and must be hand selected for uniformity. The natural full-grain naked leather will wear superior than other leather, and will actually improve over the years. This type of leather is the ultimate riding grade; the most sought after, and therefore, the most high-priced.

Now that we realize what type of material we want, we must understand the fact that leather is hot, and grasp the options that we have for the type of weather we live in. For winter biking, a leather jacket with side laces and a belt will allow you to adjust the jacket to fit comfortably against the upper body. Of course, being able to fully zip up only adds to your protection from the wind. You can also wear a leather vest underneath your bike jacket for extra warmness. For hot summer days, a leather jacket with air vents allows the air to circulate underneath the jacket and around your skin. For an all year round jacket, consider one with a zip or snap out insulated lining.

Leather is not meant to get watery, as that tends to drain the natural oils, and it is desirable to wear a rain suit over your leathers in inclement conditions. On the other hand if they do get soaked, allow them to dry naturally away from extreme heat. If the leather seems to be losing its sheen, it can be oiled to pick up its look. This supplements the natural oils in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather with mink oil or other commercially accessible products will maintain your leathers flexible and improve their lifespan considerably.

Now that you have found the just what the doctor ordered biker jacket, take care of it, and it will recompense you with years of wear. The usual lifetime of a heavy textile coat will be from 3 to 6 years at the maximum. A well maintained top quality leather bike jacket will without problems give you 10 years and more of riding pleasure!

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